I was extraordinarily lucky to have only 2 brief periods of poor weather in all of the 19 days I was walking, and even that only added up to a few hours (perhaps half a day in all). It was a bit of a shame that the views were so hazy at times, but far better to be hazy due to the high temperatures that mist or fog!!

In many ways I found the Pennine Way to be a bit of a tamed beast: with the good weather, long sections of slabs, excellent sign posting even in the remotest of areas, and some unseasonally dry conditions under foot. Nevertheless 260 miles is still a bit of a trek whatever the conditions…

New header images from my Pennine Way travels

After an early breakfast I was out on the road by 8am, so that I would have as much time as possible to complete the stage. I hoped it would take around 10 hours, though it could easily take more.

There was a sharp climb out of the valley, along a narrow path through tall plantation conifers – then at the top of Byrness Hill I was hit full in the face by the gale force wind that was still blowing from the northeast. That wind was going to make the day a whole lot harder.

The path skirts along the edge of a large MOD training area, with all of its warning signs and keep out messages – and every so often you could hear the sound of explosions coming from over the hill.

The path then headed for a fenceline that marked the border between England and Scotland, though after a few brief metres in Scotland it headed back to England and around the rather disappointing earthworks of a Roman fort at Chew Green.

After another couple of flirtations with the border, and after following the line of Dere Street (an old Roman road) the first of two mountain huts is reached. I sat down inside to get out of the wind for a few moments, though I did not pause for long after reading the notices about what to do in an attack from ‘guns, mortar or proxy bombs’.

Leaving the hut behind me the path heads uphill and alongside the border fence (which it seemed to do for most of the day – both continue uphill and with the fence!).

I made Windy Gyle in good time (the name is most appropriate) and decided that I was going to do the stage in one, so cancelled my other arrangements and set off at a brisk pace towards The Cheviot – not that I could see it, it was covered in low cloud.

I stopped for a little sit down near King’s Seat, and took my time to reach the top of West Cairn Hill, though when I got to the cairn the weather had worsened and the cloud had got thicker. There was no point in heading up to The Cheviot so I took the left turn passing Auchope Cairn and headed down to the second mountain hut.

I was more than two-thirds the way, but there was still quite a way to go. Heading up The Schill I started to rue my decision to complete the stage in one go, I ground to a halt about half way up with a total lack of energy. Thankfully many days previously I had packed a small bar of Kendal Mint Cake and that perked me up a treat.

There are two possible routes to chose from: a higher route into Kirk Yetholm, or a lower route. I chose the latter and headed off into Scotland. Descending down into the valley and it started to rain, though I was now getting a bit of shelter from the rain. The path meandered around a bit, though it was gentle walking and I was soon with just a mile of the finish.

Having travelled down the valley, along Halter Burn, and joined up with the higher level route which also descended to cross the Burn, there was just one small hill to go over before the descent into Kirk Yetholm. Then as you enter the village the end is in site at the Border Hotel – I had made it!

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More photos (from all the days of walking) can be found in the photo gallery.

I was so pleased that the ground was so dry as there were no slabs to aid you on your way, and by the look of the deep footprints left in the peat this area could be quite a quagmire when it is wet.

I was making quicker progress than I expected and was soon passing the large pepperpot cairn on Padon Hill and clambering up a steep slope next to a large plantation forest.

The path flirted with the edge of the forest for a while but eventually headed into the plantation and passing a sign proudly welcoming Pennine Way Walkers. It was not the greatest welcome in the world as the handful of waymarkers on the forest roads were few and far between. I suppose they think if you have made it this far your sense of direction and homing skills will have been finely honed.

The only progress indicator of note was the sound of the Bank Holiday Monday traffic roaring up and down the A68 on the other side of the valley.

Following many miles of dry forest roads the path finally reached the River Rede, and a nice stretch of walking along the riverbank took the path into the hamlet of Byrness.

The day’s walking was now over, just one more stage and 26 miles of the Pennine Way was now left.

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More photos (from all the days of walking) can be found in the photo gallery.

Having wandered around on Hadrian’s Wall yesterday I decided to forgo another trip along the top and headed north to pick up a path that ran along the base of the escarpment. It was not long however until I rejoined the Pennine Way, as it turned northwards away from the line of Hadrian’s Wall and headed towards the plantation forests.

The forests looked quite foreboding yesterday, though today I was quite looking forward to reaching them for the shelter they might provide from the wind.

The plantations however were quite open, with large areas of open space. The path then crossed a bigger area of open space that looked like it had never been planted, before heading down into a denser plantation.

After another section of plantation, the path headed out over moorland and then down into improved pasture amongst little hidden valleys – some of which were quite steeply sided.

Having crossed the bridge it was a relief to get off the road and join the path that followed the broad sweeping curves of the river, though before long I was in Bellingham and at the end of the day’s walk.

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More photos (from all the days of walking) can be found in the photo gallery.

Leaving late I was quickly back onto the Pennine Way, and walking alongside a huge ditch – which was part of the Hadrian’s Wall defences. It was like all the climbs of the day, short and sharp – and with a seemingly gale force wind that would hit you in the face every time you reached the top.

There were routes that would contour around the hills, and keep you sheltered from the worst of the wind, but that would take you away from the most interesting bits of the walk – alongside the wall (be it Roman or just a rebuilt ordinary drystone wall) on top of steep sided escarpments.

To the north I could see the great swathes of plantation forests, and the route ahead, but that was for tomorrow. I headed south, down to the military road and the hamlets of Once Brewed and Twice Brewed*.

*Apparently the ale served at the inn was said to be so weak that it was demanded it be brewed twice, and the name stuck. When the neighbouring Youth Hostel was officially opened by a staunch teetotaller it was mentioned that they hoped the tea would only be brewed once, and that name stuck too.

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More photos (from all the days of walking) can be found in the photo gallery.

After a brief excursion back up onto moorland the path descends again into farmland, before rising once more onto a more significant piece of moorland across Featherstone and Blenkinsopp Commons.

While the sun was out the very strong easterly wind made progress much harder, lets hope it drops tomorrow as I will be heading almost due east along Hadrian’s Wall.

As the path and the way ahead started to become clearer it entered another marshy area, thankfully it had been very dry so it was only slightly squelchy underfoot.

While the route has to cross the A69 (not a pleasant crossing) it then tries its best to skirt around Greenhead. Thankfully it makes for Thirlwall Castle – an early 14th century fortified house, with turrets and a five storey tower, and built entirely out of stone from Hadrian’s Wall (which might explain the lack of walling in this area!) – and a really nice tearoom to end a day’s walking.

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More photos (from all the days of walking) can be found in the photo gallery.

The Pennine Way wanders around the River South Tyne valley, at times keeping very close to the river’s edge, at others meandering a few hundred yards away, so there will be little moorland to be seen today.

Making a late start from the B&B, and taking my time, I arrived in Alston just in time for a mid morning cup of tea. Having drunk the place dry of tea I headed out again and found a nice spot in the sun near Gilderdale Burn out of the wind to watch the view go by.

There was not much to be seen at Whitley Castle (just a few Roman Fort earthworks) so I continued to amble towards Slaggyford. At times the path comes close to the dismantled railway that runs along the valley, though I suppose at the time the Pennine Way was first planned it would have still been in use.

Eventually I did make use of the dismantled railway as coming into Slaggyford it was the easiest way to get to the B&B, which was adjacent to the old station.

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More photos (from all the days of walking) can be found in the photo gallery.

Thankfully there was no scrambling involved (as I was not feeling too well), the path climbed steadily up towards the summit of Green Fell, and then after short descents and ascents went over the peaks of Great Dun, Little Dun and Cross Fells.

The fell that was easiest to recognise from a distance was Great Dun, with its masts and radar dome – which were to remain in view for much of the day, most disconcerting at it is 16 miles to Garrigill !!

Heading off the northern side of Cross Fell, I stopped at Greg’s Hut (Bothy) to review the map. The ‘mistake’ I made was thinking that most of the hard work was over, as I was only about halfway to finding my B&B for the night. It was a very long trek following a path that seemed to prefer to try and twist your ankle with every step than let you pass.

The twists and turns in the path also teased you as to the progress you were making, time after time it delivered yet another fell to be contoured round instead of offering what was finally a glorious view of the River South Tyne valley when I made it to Black Band Fell.

Thankfully from the top of Black Band it was a short descent down into Garrigill to find my B&B for the night.

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More photos (from all the days of walking) can be found in the photo gallery.

In effect it is a deep chasm surrounded by grey-blue dolerite crags, whose continued crumbling scatters scree down the flanks of the valley. It is often referred to as High Cup Nick, though that is only one part of the huge scar, and is sometimes applied to the waterfall.

It really is a hidden gem.

It was a short walk back to the River Tees, though I cut the corner to Widdy Bank Farm, from where the path stuck closely to the river again – at times almost getting squeezed out between steep bolder-strewn slopes and the fast flowing river. I was really pleased the water level was low as it would have been much harder clambering over the boulders higher up the slope.

The way ahead was then blocked by the main flow out of Cow Green Reservoir, and the fabulous Cauldron Snout waterfall with a scramble up the side to get to the bridge at the top.

With the waterfall behind me the moorland stretched out ahead of me, with just a red flag flying in the distance for company. Keeping to the path, and minding not to wander into the danger area, I was soon at the highlight of the day – High Cup.

High Cup is a perfectly formed U-shaped valley that has been carved out of the side of Dufton Fell. In effect it is a deep chasm surrounded by grey-blue dolerite crags, whose continued crumbling scatters scree down the flanks of the valley. It is often referred to as High Cup Nick, though that is only one part of the huge scar, and is sometimes applied to the waterfall.

The Pennine Way winds its way along the northern side of High Cup, and then descends down into the village of Dufton.

Before heading off to find the B&B, I stopped for an ice cream at the Old Post Office, which provided a good view of tomorrow’s challenge: Knock Fell, Great Dun Fell (with its radar dome), Little Dun Fell, and then finally Cross Fell (the highest point in England outside of the Lake District at 893m). Lets hope the weather is good!

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Route

More photos (from all the days of walking) can be found in the photo gallery.